Wester Ross in the Highlands is host to rare birds, mystical loch islands and soaring peaks. Now, sustainable tourism is helping more of us enjoy it
I’m standing on one of the most magical and unusual spots in the Highlands, on an island in the middle of a loch. Of course there’s nothing unusual in itself about that – there are hundreds of such Scottish islands – but this particular one, Eilean Sùbhainn, is large enough to have a miniature loch of its own at its centre, which itself has an island on it, like a series of Russian dolls.