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The Inner Hebrides isle known as the Hawaii of the North is home to shimmering white sands, powerful landscapes and a new boutique hotel

I was lying on my stomach on a clifftop waiting for a puffin to stop preening long enough for me to take its photo with my little camera. A couple of women were sitting on the grass nearby, huge lenses trained on the bird. I had one eye on the puffin but my ear on the women – “I’ve only taken 86 photos, so it shouldn’t take long to edit them.”

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