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With fresh, vibrant flavours at every turn, even old-school carnivores will be happy at Tofu Vegan

Tofu Vegan, 105 Upper Street, London N1 1QN (020 7916 3304). Starters and dim sum £5.50-£8.50, large plates £7.90-£14.80, desserts £4.80, wines from £18.50

A dozen years ago, an editor invited me to go vegan for two weeks, so I could report back from the raucous frontline of plant-based living. I haggled her down to one week and then, after five days, announced I meant a working week, and angrily seared a steak. While the piece took the challenge seriously, and came with a stacked side order of self-mockery, it was also well seasoned with eye-rolling. How funny. Rayner, the carnivore, swearing off meat, dairy, eggs and honey, with hilarious consequences. Let the fun commence.

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