A winning way with short-season figs, and a crunchy, herby, baked fish treat
This is the most extraordinary summer I can remember. The day on which monsoon-style rains smashed my tomato plants to rags was followed by one so hot and dry I could barely find the energy to toss a salad. This is the future I guess, when those of us who like to cook not only seasonally but also for the weather will be kept on their toes. (Last week we went from eating tomato salad in the garden to wanting pie and mashed potatoes by the fire in the space of 24 hours.) I am getting used to planning no further ahead than my next meal. A certain spontaneity is required if we are to cook in tune with this crazy, unpredictable weather.
There was a tray of sardines at the fishmonger’s the other day – silver, black and gold with eyes as bright as jewels. An all too rare sighting of a seasonal fish I first met as a kid, tucked up in golden tins of tomato sauce that you opened with a little metal key. Then we ate them on toast for tea.