London’s top sushi chefs are fighting to book a precious seat to see what this young man is doing in Brixton
Kurisu Omakase at Ichiban Sushi, 58A Atlantic Road, London SW9 8PY. All bookings announced on Instagram @kurisuomakase. Dinner £108
It is eight o’clock on a dark April evening and I am hunched over my phone, trying to beat the invisible hordes. I had set myself an alarm for this moment, and now I’m going for it, speed running the dialogue boxes for name, address and all the rest. Finally, I click confirm and allow my phone the electronic deep breath of a refresh. There it is: I have two seats for dinner, over three months hence. I’m in.