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Ripe fruit and a crisp herby topping for summer salads

First thing in the morning, while the kettle comes to the boil, I turn the fruits that have been slowly ripening on a white dish on the kitchen counter. Each fruit – a peach, an apricot or nectarine – gets a gentle squeeze with the whole hand (never a poke with a thumb – that I witness all too often in the shops) and, more importantly, a deep sniff. When ripe, the scent of the peaches is often reminiscent of roses. Smell rather than touch is often the best way to judge if they are ready to eat.

When ripe, the scent of the peaches is often reminiscent of roses

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